‘Why are you going to put yourself through all that trouble and mess? Don’t you know the stalls around Bohri Mohalla and Mohammed Ali road are open all year round too?’, a friend exclaimed to me, as I told her I was planning to attend an Iftaar Walk hosted by the Pet Pujaris on a Sunday evening. Honestly, visiting the Bohri Mohalla area during Ramzan is about more than just food. It is an experience. The lights and sounds are captivating. You cannot help but get drawn into the festivities and camaraderie. It’s such a beautiful amalgamation of people from different cultures, religions, and walks of life. Case in point, our little group of 29 ‘foodies’ had a young man from Brazil, a US Embassy officer, a of Gujarati who ate more meat than I did, and a one year old infant who enthusiastically stayed awake through the entire chaos.
And then there’s the food. Smells of meat being grilled, malpuas being fried, and masalas being coated. Sights of colourful firnis and halwas on display, kebabs hanging off skewers, and ginormous tawas cooking up every meat imaginable. In addition to a lot of old favorites, I got to try out a bunch of new places and dishes which I would not have had the inclination to experiment with had it not been for the crowd I was with. Hats off to our guides for the night, brother duo – Taha and Qadir Varawala, and Breakfast Queen – Pratishtha Khan, who knew and recommended dishes with such ease you would think they were maneuvering around their own house.
We started off at Sarvi in Byculla, renowned for having the city’s best seekh kababs. Don’t let the cat prowling around the kitchen, or the potatoes rolling around the floor, deter you from entering this haven. Because, haven it is! I attained nirvana when I opened that casserole, and found dozens of seekh kababs staring back at me. The beef (water buffalo, duh!) seekh kebabs are perfectly spiced, and the meat literally melts in your mouth. I was left wondering how the real deal would have tasted, pre-beef ban era. I preferred the beef ones to the chicken, even though a few thought otherwise. I ate a Tongue Masala for the first time, and quite enjoyed the taste. It was not as meat-y as I expected, and the masala gravy was finger licking. The creamy Bheja Masala was another favorite.